8 de jul de 2007

Winter 2008 = “existence precedes essence.”

To be + time = Existentialism - Sartre

After WTC´s tragedy often I use the "Existentialism" for to understand, to decode, or to classify the collections and the brands movements in direction to his public aim. In these 6 last years, the collections looks involved in a constant rescue of references that disembarks so many nostalgic ambiances, that remit to the postwar (50/60´s, detaching the delicate European style, cared in finishes and details) to the world economic miracle (80´s or, more precisely, 75/85), especially the market of luxury that has sought-after resume the Glamour sometimes Retro sometimes No Sense, all of the segments accompanying and present profusion of lifestyles. Perhaps, also, by the biggest availability of time and facility of to web researchs, I find that "all" expressions of art inspire the fashion now. Maybe It´s nice to follow and to study the cinema novo / nouvelle vague/ Woody Allen; Painting / surrealism or Dadaism -Matisse /dali / dada; Philosophy and literature existentialist: Camus, Nelson Rodrigues, Françoise Sagan, Sartre and Pascal, also, others philosophical and artistic movements with highlight to Romantism.

2008 we will perceive 1 anarchic state with the arrival of new generation of consumers from among economic instability under constant perspective of fragility peace world and blast of reports with violent character, that deaden the world, the future of the planet, our perspectives of collective trends infiltrated by absence of stability´s perspectives and projects to long term of each individual, And for my delight Lobão is back, with debates to mtv, I confessed that the last one left me confused, healthy many divergent opinions ;)) and I think it announces of a certain form, a big break of segments and profusion of associations, not logical, that fertilize passionates styles, in the fashion, sometimes not functional and, especially, agitated. The crisis established in the world will continue, It´s clear!! But the fashion will oppose to uniformity and will answer with ruins of diverse references, that aspires to a new esthetics, in direction to a consumer, that want to be protected, purified and reconstructed. I believe in sprouting and increase of news brands, that will act locally expressing concepts that coincide with mass yearnings and global, utilizing clichés "anti" that, probably, 2/3 years afterwards matured by the market in fact, they will find an original way for to be creative. 2008 still be uncovering small well punctual creative experiences. The e-commerce will grow, it´s good a lot for us, positive results in this market! Still It´s time!

The art is present in all textile chain: threads fantasy, woven, finishment of fabrics, modeling and technology, detach humanization - hand made. The dream, the insanity and the hallucination aggregate and revert the conceptions of the logical - surrealism. Finally, the fashion will continue fulfilling with position of to investigate, to associate, to reconcile, to matters, before, antagonistic to the fashion. Interesting, also, it will be brands images presentations and collections that will detach the abandonment with innovative plastic result, sometimes this abandon will signify the coincidence of a determined situation, sometimes desolating of the isolation and in fact abandon. Finally, the abandonment, the casual, the nude, the human solitary condition. We will continue to find good creative surprises from the printed material, styling and photograph. The printed material with superimposition of images, or with patterns inside patterns, the styling that creates personages that go very beyond than the collections proposes and the photograph always pretty looks like capable with his artistic works to freeze the time forever.

Coming back to the existentialism and for to facilitate the comprehension of this thought, we find three main profiles of thought (consume), but without to forget that each consumer is unique. It follows down, each profile, containing initially 4 words that defined the structural difference of the thought of each:

Agnostic: (Chance, communist, relativist, action) is a mystical consumer, pacifist and identified with all the questions that approach the "health" of the future of the humanity, questions of social/economic, ecological character, etc. All of the products that will remit to the hand made or has characteristics of essential are accepted, as well as aspect of ageing, authenticate, natural, comfortable and with composed coloring eroded by secluded pigments of the nature, organic fabrics, tricots with handmade and heavy threads, etc. Mystical, ethnic printed material, ancestress, sometimes naïf, floral minimalist or reproduction of giants floral from porcelains, tarnished and without definite contour (abstract). Contrast in textures and presence of patchworks and embroideries. Music: Indie (1000 X mad world - Gary jules). Summarizing, the Agnostic try "to live well with his soul" - Picture roberta ridolfi

Brands: jan taminiau, Steve J & Yoni, af vandevorst, ann to demeulemeester (men gq style), bless, hermes, charles anastase, rick owens, viktor & rolf, vivienne westwood, to gaultier, boudicca and bottega veneta, m+f girbaud, marni, moschino-cheapandchic among others

Religious: (Redetermination, elitism, moralist, intentions) they will try to maintain, amid the world crisis, still an elitist posture, they follow what will go to be determined by the brands/fashion designers, even though the proposals are escapists. The products are sometimes provocative, nostalgic, and elegant composition that exalts the sensuality and a superficial luxury, rejects the primitivism, however not the ambient. In this summer the collections traversed the planet a horizon to another, creating a bourgeois ethnic trend that mixed the modern to ethnic. Finally. the religious live in a material world, superficial and external, literally, between the well and the evil. The collections of winter will involve us in imaginary heavens, delicate ambient (Impressionism), stable and luxurious as a biscuit, flirt with the force of the art of the spanish painters, example, collection haute couture, winter 2007/08 of Christian Dior by John Galliano (video youtube). For the same group of consumption a vision of the hell complement or ambient decadent from cabarets with fun and lust associations (sins).

brands: galliano, lagerfeld, valentino, lacroix, elie saab, all in the haute couture and cavalli,

Atheist: (Free will, anarchist, not moralist, results) strong identity with impulsive behaviors adolescent, or individuals that entered the professional life for fight in the Front, customizable´s uniforms build a big plural army and anti-massive, belonging to a social structure done not worry about territorial references, but yes, in to develop mental and physicals values, seeking through his qualifications the social recognition and... the time runs at lumiere´s project.. Products obtained with materials fusion with focus in the utilitarianism , utilize technology for to fold, to dislocates, to approaches, to tidies and disappears. His clothes remit the protection x fights, multifunction and comfort. Futuristics subjects, allusion to a new cyberworld. Modeling gives value to the body. Prints with messages or mass consumption icons, gigantic geometrical, ironic/aggressive appeal and digital compositions. Effects and metallic fabrics. Black + black + black and synthetic colors - illustrations of Contextual Villains.

Brands: Jeroen van Tuyl Men, louis vuitton, spijkers & spijkers, bruno pieters, gianbasttista valli (Via fashion FM), hussein chalayan, issey miyake, jean charles of castelbajac, jeremy scott, Robert normand, stella mccartney, tsumori chisato, ungaro, wunderkind, Dries van Noten, catherine malandrino, pucci, etro, givenchy, gucci, helmut lang, iceberg, es via sofemine,

also if you have time go to visit ... link with images and trends: cosmoworlds with the subject backward future and later post special heimtextil + links with photos of runways: modamour, iconique, style.com, showcoverage.vogue., nymag, glamour, gq style (collection winter man), elle.de, fashion FM, sofeminine. Blogs with runways: aboutf now with a new version worpress;)) in Portuguese hypercool and fashionprofile.uol.com .br + international blogs frillr, glam.com/blogs, blogs.gettyimages, sassybella + videos in weshow, clickandvideo, frillr and directory fashionmodeldirectory,
sorry about my bad English but i think is better then to use a virtual translator free ;)) and 47% of my visitors in this saturday come from other countries, not brazil ;)

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